i should preface this post by stating that i've thoroughly enjoyed the food in china. as you might suspect, eating here is really nothing like eating at even the most "authentic" chinese restaurant in america. i love the fact that nothing is processed. what you see is what you get, even if it means seeing all the bones of a bird/pig/fish, and all the eyeballs & antennae of shrimp/fish/crab.
at the factory where i'm working, i share a freshly prepared lunch almost daily with my colleagues in a small dining room. the factory is run by some folks from taiwan, so the particular scene i'm about to describe may not be completely routine in mainland china. we are served six or seven dishes, all on a rotary plate in the center of the table. each place setting consists of a small plate, a small bowl, a pair of chopsticks, and maybe a toothpick. no drinks. meals are simple and quick - not a lot of small talk. the whole thing takes like 20 minutes. you walk in, pick up your bowl, walk over to a big rice crock, and load up with some badass sticky white rice. then, you sit down, pick up your sticks, and start digging in. i don't mean digging in and piling shit in your bowl. i mean grabbing a bite from this dish, putting it in your mouth, grabbing a bite from that dish, putting it in your mouth, and so on. there is no translation for the english term "double-dipping". the little plate is for spitting out your bones and crabshells and whatever. if you want something from the other side of the table, grab and spin. don't ask permission to do so. you might also get up to refill your rice bowl with some soup. or you might not. after you've savaged the dishes - very little if any food wasted here - you cap off the meal with some fresh fruit for dessert - apple slices, a banana, lychees, etc. today we had a fruit that looks and feels exactly like a tomato but tastes sort of like a plum. does anyone know what that's called in english? oh yeah, and does anyone know what's up with fruit skins here? i just realized today that nobody (other than me - whoops) eats the skin of any fruit (apples, that tomato-looking thing, etc.)...
i have to be honest - i still can't really get used to the slurping noises. in this culture, slurping - soup, some meat off some bones that you're about to violently spit out onto the tablecloth, whatever - is absolutely not offensive. in fact, i hope i'm not offending my hosts by not eating loudly enough - i've had one person comment on how quiet i eat. when i return home, let me know if i sound obnoxious at lunch. spitting at the table is kind of cool...
note - in china, i've yet to encounter a vegetarian dish i didn't like, but i have encountered some meat dishes that definitely turned my stomach. hey parents out there - are you having trouble convincing your children to eat their veggies? anyone else - trying to talk your friends into becoming strict vegetarians? simple solution: at the next dinner, serve one bowl of broccoli and one plate of boiled chicken feet (toenails intact) and see what happens. seriously, kids - i'm not sure why chicken feet at the dinner table are so visually unappealing to me. i mean, really - why is it so much easier for me to eat a chicken leg than a chicken foot? first of all, i guess i never really realized how big chicken feet are. in proportion to chicken legs, the feet are quite large. they also sort of resemble the hands of an infant human. fleshy little fingers attached to fat little palms. not to mention the anatomically similar bones...
yesterday's lunch almost did me in. my host at the factory took me out with some computer company execs from taiwan. it was a two hour ordeal, and it involved a lot of chicken feet, a lot of octopus chopped up and placed in a neatly carved pumpkin, and a lot of other stuff that i could not identify at all. my host made me - uhh, strongly suggested that i - try one unidentified pocket of stuff. i obliged and bit in, causing some "creamy" creamy filled center to ooze out. anyone who knows me knows that i'm a texture person. at one point with this stuff in my mouth, i almost started gagging involuntarily. not cool. snap out of it, uber. get your shit together. my problem was solved by simply imagining that i was enjoying a nice custard-filled donut. try it sometime; the human mind is pretty powerful.
in case you're wondering - yes, i'm now a badass with chopsticks, and no, there's no such thing as a fortune cookie (at least i haven't seen one yet)...